South
of the Hajar Mountains, in the eastern region of Oman, lies the
Wahiba Sands or Ramlat al Wahaybah. It is smaller than the vast
Rub al Khali or ‘the Empty Quarter’. A fiery expanse
of sand in the hot, summer months, the Wahiba Sands turns into
a popular tourist attraction as winter sets in.
DESERT BEAUTY
Although the name ‘Wahiba Sands’ connotes a landscape
that is typically desert, it is not so. Here you can also find
an undulating coastline and most unlikely woodlands to ever be
found in an ‘arid’ desert. If you plan to drive down
to the Wahiba Sands from Muscat, you can take the coastal road,
which will involve the company of beaches, mountains, wadis and
townships such as Tiwi and Qalhat.
The sand itself takes on different hues of beautiful colours at
different times of the year. So depending on which season you
visit them, you may find them rose, red or amber. The Wahiba Sands
comprise of quartz, carbonate and ophiolitic grains which cause
these amazing colours. 
AT HOME IN THE SANDS
Life in the desert can be arduous, taking its toll on man and
beast alike. But for the over 2,500 Bedouins living here, this
is home. The various Bedu tribes here include the Mawalik, the
Hikman, the Amr and Wahiba. The Bedus live in tents and rear camels
and goats. The camels are reared for racing, and are often sold
around the Gulf area. A thoroughbred racing camel can command
a handsome price. The Bedus also make attractive rugs. The designs
and the black and red colours give these pieces an intense look,
and are prized by tourists and residents alike.
WAHIBA SANDS HERE WE COME!
As a tourist or a visitor to Oman, you can also experience at
least a part of what it is to live in the desert. There are a
number of tourist camps advertising their ‘Wahiba experience’,
which have proved to be memorable for many. Starting with a roller-coaster
drive across the mountainous sands to the campsite, from a pre-arranged
meeting point.
CAMPING
OUT
The camps themselves recreate the Bedu lifestyle. You will stay
in grass tents on the sands. These are furnished with beds, tables,
chairs, and are quite comfortable. A common tent serves as a group
meeting place or a sit-out, where you can mingle with other guests
and partake of mouthwatering dates and traditional kawa. A crackling
campfire is ideal for dancing around, or if you prefer, to warm
your hands at, and exchange stories. As night cloaks the campsite,
you can look up at a velvety black sky with jewelled stars twinkling
down. Many prefer to sleep out under the stars, in the desert
night.
When it comes to food, you will enjoy traditional desert fare
– roast chicken and barbecued kebabs among other delicacies.
Children have a separate area where they can go dune-buggying.
There are also bigger dune buggies that can roar up the towering
dunes. If you are among those who prefer a more sedate pace, there’s
nothing like a peaceful camel ride.
NAHAR TOURISM OASIS: TOURISM WITH A CAUSE.
A popular desert getaway, Nahar Tourism Oasis is part of the Empty
Quarter Tours. It boasts four bungalows built in Omani style,
ten Bedouin tents, and a capacity to add on tents to house up
to 60 people. It offers a variety of trips across the country,
as well as treks through the Wahiba Sands and the Empty Quarter
between Oman and Arabia. Abdullah al Harthy, the General Manager,
owner and operator, takes pride in being the guide for all the
tours in the sands. He follows Wilfred Thesiger’s route
and says that he tries to make all his tours special, tours where
“history talks”. Harthy has also taken up the cause
of the Bedouin. Future initiatives here include helping the tribes
find alternative sources of income, possibly by aligning his tours
with their camps.
DUNE DRIVING: ACCELERATED THRILL
Many love the thrill of desert driving, of simply heading into
the empty dunes. Although this can be an exhilarating and rewarding
experience, please remember to respect the power of the desert.
Always check your four-wheel drive and your oil and water levels
before you set off. It is preferable to travel in the company
of other cars, so you have ready help in case of a breakdown.
To appreciate the various colours of the Wahiba Sands, set out
early so you have a vantage view of the sands. |